胸衣 towrah

中文語音導覽
Truku ka kari
English audio guide
族語介紹( Patas Truku)

Seuxal,ubung Truku o snalu pusu qthur qhuni ni sgqur dha ka ska qhuni,saw kiya ni snalu dha ubung djiyun bsiyaq ni stmaan bu kndux waray cinun.Kiya ka kiya ni wada kmpriyux ka knxalan rinah qtaan ka smlaan pnspuan plutut ka knkingal qhuni ubung.Qhuni dnii sklwiun bi pnspuan plutut ni gmdhug qnqaya ubung.

Ga qnrquran ka snalu qhuni ubung ni bling ubung ksun,pusu bi psaan qnqaya cinun qabang. 經線捲筒psaan isil ubug,waray cinun mtqiri捲筒 hmghug babaw hiya,smlaan saw nii cinun qabang blbil waray siida rinrh bi pslhkah, duri ni mnegarang bi ni mnhdu uuda.

Rhuq tnunan ubung dnii,seejiq Truku o niqan kingal qnqaya ubung rudan sbiyaw,ubung ksun,ubung nii o pntngahan 腰式水平織布機.Ubung nii o kska pusu bi mseusa seejiq Truku,ptlutut knxalan hici,kiya ni niqan bi brihan quri smmalu cinun qabang.

Hnigan Ubung nii o paru bi ni sgqur dha ka ska qhuni,kika knparu na ni knshjilan na,smmalu ubung siida gmaaw malu bi qhuni ni djiyun bsiyaq,kiya o sakus.Ubung nii o sgqur dha tminun siida phnang malu bi bhangan hnang,hnang nii o mdka paah quri uyas ida nkiya ni mseupu hnang tminun qabang,saw bi kkrana smkuxul tminun.

Nasi ini duuy ubung do psaan dha kska ubung ka cinun qabang, 經線捲筒ni qnqaya,saw ii malu bi skun ni kmlawa qmlahang qnqaya cinun.Ubung o aji wana djiyun,niqan skun ni quri uyas,kiya ni pnteura seejiq Truku ska tminun qabang niqan nanak saw pnseanak gnkla na ni kngkla kndsan na.

英文介紹(English guide)

“Ubung”is a weaving box. Which was usually made of thick tree trunks hollowed out. Using Formosan Michelia or Comphor Tree, both are hard wood. Plus, a one-piece design is strong and durable itself, therefore an old “ubung” is able to carry very heavy warped threads. A “ubung” is now made of spliced heavy wooden planks together. Benifit from modern carpenter knowledge, a new assembled “ubung” can be as sturdy as old ones.

The “ubung” is fixed to the weaver’s waist by a strap, ensuring that the warp threads can move steadily during the weaving process. Unlike other weaving tools, this particular loom has the weaver sitting on the ground with his feet firmly supporting the wooden box while hanging the ends of the cloth spools around her waist. The ends of the warp threads are wound around the warp barrel of the “UBUNG”, creating a stable weaving structure.

The size of the “ubung” is quite large, and because it is usually made from a whole section of trunk hollowed out, so it is not small in size and weight. The hollow part makes a pleasant sound when weaving. The echo from “ubung” accompanies the rhythms of different weavers’ labor compose the BGM of Taroko  way of weaving. Therefore the famous Taroko  weaving song start the lyrics with onomatopoeias of the echo.

The hollowed-out part of a “ubung”, could also be used to place various weaving tools as we mentioned before. When a “ubung” is not at use, the weaver put the Semi-finished, warp rolls, and other accessories into it. The hallow part makes storage and working sequence graceful, and protects these important weaving tools. 

There is usually a reel for warp threads fixed at one end of a “ubung”. This design allows the weaver to straighten the warp threads with less effort, making the whole weaving process smooth and efficient. In addition, this design provides good support for the front part of a “ubung”, ensuring stability during weaving.

太魯閣族男子傳統服飾——胸衣,也被稱為 Towrah。這種胸衣通常是由苧麻布等特定材料製成,具有很強的文化意涵。胸衣被穿在胸部,覆蓋整個胸部區域,它緊貼身體,既保護了戰士的胸部,又象徵著身份和地位。
胸衣有兩種主要款式:五角形和四方形。值得注意的是,四方形的胸衣需要特別的穿戴方式。首先,將胸衣旋轉45度,使其成為菱形,然後將其繫在頸部後方和左右兩側。這種獨特的設計使胸衣不僅是實用的服裝,還成為了身份象徵的重要標誌。
在太魯閣族的社會中,並非所有人都能夠穿戴帶有裝飾的胸衣。只有社會地位較高的人,如領袖(bukung)、祭司、以及戰功顯赫的勇士,才有資格佩戴帶有裝飾扣鈕或貝殼的胸衣。紅色胸衣則更為特殊,只有在戰鬥中表現出色

的英雄(kbuhug)或男子漢(balay bi snaw)才能穿戴。這些胸衣不僅代表了勇氣和榮譽,還體現了佩戴者在社會中的崇高地位。通過這些獨特的服飾設計,我們可以窺見太魯閣族深厚的文化傳統,以及他們對勇士精神的尊崇。

織布聲

製作ubung的樹木通常選用木質細密、堅固耐用的品種,如樟樹和烏心石。這個工具的中空箱體在織布時會發出悅耳的聲音,這種聲音彷彿是一種自然的音樂,伴隨著織布者的勞動節奏,增添了織布過程的樂趣。

女生要會織布才能夠紋上臉上的文面,才正式成人,並被其他族人所尊敬。當織布者不使用ubung時,他們會將織布、經線捲筒及其他附屬零件一併捲入這個中空的箱子內,這不僅方便儲存,也有效地保護了這些重要的織布工具。Ubung不僅具有實用性,還蘊含著保存的功能,這反映了太魯閣族在織布傳統中獨特的智慧與文化內涵。

走上靈橋

在太魯閣族的傳統中有著生命最後會到美好的地方-彩虹(靈)橋;進入彩虹(靈)橋的條件男女各不同,女生過彩虹橋的時候會有守橋者,除了看臉上有沒有織文外,也會看雙手上有沒有鮮血的印記,因為雙手會因為勤奮辛勞的織布而受傷,才可進入彩虹橋,若無印記則掉入河裡被螃蟹咬死。

胸衣 towrah

資料來源機關 台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會

主題分類

織布

撰寫者

Tapang Cisin、Cimiing Miki

建檔單位

台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會

參考資料

台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會

 

材質

木頭

尺寸

寬80-90cm, 高25-30cm

使用時機

日常使用

授權狀態

台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會

本作品已獲得許可CC BY-NC 4.0