族語介紹( Patas Truku)
Seuxal,ubung Truku o snalu pusu qthur qhuni ni sgqur dha ka ska qhuni,saw kiya ni snalu dha ubung djiyun bsiyaq ni stmaan bu kndux waray cinun.Kiya ka kiya ni wada kmpriyux ka knxalan rinah qtaan ka smlaan pnspuan plutut ka knkingal qhuni ubung.Qhuni dnii sklwiun bi pnspuan plutut ni gmdhug qnqaya ubung.
Ga qnrquran ka snalu qhuni ubung ni bling ubung ksun,pusu bi psaan qnqaya cinun qabang. 經線捲筒psaan isil ubug,waray cinun mtqiri捲筒 hmghug babaw hiya,smlaan saw nii cinun qabang blbil waray siida rinrh bi pslhkah, duri ni mnegarang bi ni mnhdu uuda.
Rhuq tnunan ubung dnii,seejiq Truku o niqan kingal qnqaya ubung rudan sbiyaw,ubung ksun,ubung nii o pntngahan 腰式水平織布機.Ubung nii o kska pusu bi mseusa seejiq Truku,ptlutut knxalan hici,kiya ni niqan bi brihan quri smmalu cinun qabang.
Hnigan Ubung nii o paru bi ni sgqur dha ka ska qhuni,kika knparu na ni knshjilan na,smmalu ubung siida gmaaw malu bi qhuni ni djiyun bsiyaq,kiya o sakus.Ubung nii o sgqur dha tminun siida phnang malu bi bhangan hnang,hnang nii o mdka paah quri uyas ida nkiya ni mseupu hnang tminun qabang,saw bi kkrana smkuxul tminun.
Nasi ini duuy ubung do psaan dha kska ubung ka cinun qabang, 經線捲筒ni qnqaya,saw ii malu bi skun ni kmlawa qmlahang qnqaya cinun.Ubung o aji wana djiyun,niqan skun ni quri uyas,kiya ni pnteura seejiq Truku ska tminun qabang niqan nanak saw pnseanak gnkla na ni kngkla kndsan na.
英文介紹(English guide)
“Ubung”is a weaving box. Which was usually made of thick tree trunks hollowed out. Using Formosan Michelia or Comphor Tree, both are hard wood. Plus, a one-piece design is strong and durable itself, therefore an old “ubung” is able to carry very heavy warped threads. A “ubung” is now made of spliced heavy wooden planks together. Benifit from modern carpenter knowledge, a new assembled “ubung” can be as sturdy as old ones.
The “ubung” is fixed to the weaver’s waist by a strap, ensuring that the warp threads can move steadily during the weaving process. Unlike other weaving tools, this particular loom has the weaver sitting on the ground with his feet firmly supporting the wooden box while hanging the ends of the cloth spools around her waist. The ends of the warp threads are wound around the warp barrel of the “UBUNG”, creating a stable weaving structure.
The size of the “ubung” is quite large, and because it is usually made from a whole section of trunk hollowed out, so it is not small in size and weight. The hollow part makes a pleasant sound when weaving. The echo from “ubung” accompanies the rhythms of different weavers’ labor compose the BGM of Taroko way of weaving. Therefore the famous Taroko weaving song start the lyrics with onomatopoeias of the echo.
The hollowed-out part of a “ubung”, could also be used to place various weaving tools as we mentioned before. When a “ubung” is not at use, the weaver put the Semi-finished, warp rolls, and other accessories into it. The hallow part makes storage and working sequence graceful, and protects these important weaving tools.
There is usually a reel for warp threads fixed at one end of a “ubung”. This design allows the weaver to straighten the warp threads with less effort, making the whole weaving process smooth and efficient. In addition, this design provides good support for the front part of a “ubung”, ensuring stability during weaving.
袖筒的製作過程非常講究,首先是在一塊布料上使用夾織和浮織這些獨特的編織技巧,將毛線巧妙地織入布料之中。這種技法不僅使布料更加結實耐用,還賦予了袖筒一定的彈性和保暖功能。接著,根據使用者的手臂長度剪裁布料,將其裁剪成與雙臂長度相符的形狀。最後,將布料對摺並縫合,留下一個開口,這樣就做成了手臂套,也就是我們所說的袖筒。這種手工製作過程需要
極高的技術和耐心,每一件袖筒都承載著製作者的心血和智慧。
袖筒在太魯閣族人的日常生活中有著重要的功能。早期生活在山區的太魯閣族人,無論是在草叢中行走,還是在農田裡勞作,經常面臨著衣物磨損的風險。袖筒的出現大大減少了這種風險,它能夠有效保護衣物,尤其是在進行繁重的體力勞動時,袖筒可以防止衣物被刮破或磨損,延長了服飾的使用壽命。
根據文獻記載,早期的袖筒設計簡潔,主要以米白色的苧麻為材料,這種材料輕便、耐用,特別適合於製作服飾配件。這些袖筒通常不會過多注重裝飾,因為它們的主要功能是實用性。然而,隨著時間的推移,袖筒的設計也開始變得更加多樣化,有些人會在袖筒上織入簡單的圖案或使用其他顏色的毛線進行點綴,這些細節不僅增添了美感,也體現了佩戴者的個人風格和手工藝水平。
值得注意的是,袖筒並不僅僅是男性的專屬配件,女性也經常佩戴它們。袖筒的穿著方式靈活多變,有些人會將袖筒穿在上衣之內,以保護內層衣物不受磨損;有些則選擇將袖筒穿在外面,既增加了服飾的層次感,也為整體造型增添了獨特的風格。這些袖筒的設計和款式還可以反映出佩戴者的社會地位和技能水平,一個家族的聲望往往也通過這些服飾細節得到體現。
袖筒 usux
資料來源機關 台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會
主題分類
織布
撰寫者
Tapang Cisin、Cimiing Miki
建檔單位
台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會
參考資料
台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會
材質
木頭
尺寸
寬80-90cm, 高25-30cm
使用時機
日常使用
授權狀態
台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會
本作品已獲得許可CC BY-NC 4.0