族語介紹( Patas Truku)
Seuxal,ubung Truku o snalu pusu qthur qhuni ni sgqur dha ka ska qhuni,saw kiya ni snalu dha ubung djiyun bsiyaq ni stmaan bu kndux waray cinun.Kiya ka kiya ni wada kmpriyux ka knxalan rinah qtaan ka smlaan pnspuan plutut ka knkingal qhuni ubung.Qhuni dnii sklwiun bi pnspuan plutut ni gmdhug qnqaya ubung.
Ga qnrquran ka snalu qhuni ubung ni bling ubung ksun,pusu bi psaan qnqaya cinun qabang. 經線捲筒psaan isil ubug,waray cinun mtqiri捲筒 hmghug babaw hiya,smlaan saw nii cinun qabang blbil waray siida rinrh bi pslhkah, duri ni mnegarang bi ni mnhdu uuda.
Rhuq tnunan ubung dnii,seejiq Truku o niqan kingal qnqaya ubung rudan sbiyaw,ubung ksun,ubung nii o pntngahan 腰式水平織布機.Ubung nii o kska pusu bi mseusa seejiq Truku,ptlutut knxalan hici,kiya ni niqan bi brihan quri smmalu cinun qabang.
Hnigan Ubung nii o paru bi ni sgqur dha ka ska qhuni,kika knparu na ni knshjilan na,smmalu ubung siida gmaaw malu bi qhuni ni djiyun bsiyaq,kiya o sakus.Ubung nii o sgqur dha tminun siida phnang malu bi bhangan hnang,hnang nii o mdka paah quri uyas ida nkiya ni mseupu hnang tminun qabang,saw bi kkrana smkuxul tminun.
Nasi ini duuy ubung do psaan dha kska ubung ka cinun qabang, 經線捲筒ni qnqaya,saw ii malu bi skun ni kmlawa qmlahang qnqaya cinun.Ubung o aji wana djiyun,niqan skun ni quri uyas,kiya ni pnteura seejiq Truku ska tminun qabang niqan nanak saw pnseanak gnkla na ni kngkla kndsan na.
英文介紹(English guide)
“Ubung”is a weaving box. Which was usually made of thick tree trunks hollowed out. Using Formosan Michelia or Comphor Tree, both are hard wood. Plus, a one-piece design is strong and durable itself, therefore an old “ubung” is able to carry very heavy warped threads. A “ubung” is now made of spliced heavy wooden planks together. Benifit from modern carpenter knowledge, a new assembled “ubung” can be as sturdy as old ones.
The “ubung” is fixed to the weaver’s waist by a strap, ensuring that the warp threads can move steadily during the weaving process. Unlike other weaving tools, this particular loom has the weaver sitting on the ground with his feet firmly supporting the wooden box while hanging the ends of the cloth spools around her waist. The ends of the warp threads are wound around the warp barrel of the “UBUNG”, creating a stable weaving structure.
The size of the “ubung” is quite large, and because it is usually made from a whole section of trunk hollowed out, so it is not small in size and weight. The hollow part makes a pleasant sound when weaving. The echo from “ubung” accompanies the rhythms of different weavers’ labor compose the BGM of Taroko way of weaving. Therefore the famous Taroko weaving song start the lyrics with onomatopoeias of the echo.
The hollowed-out part of a “ubung”, could also be used to place various weaving tools as we mentioned before. When a “ubung” is not at use, the weaver put the Semi-finished, warp rolls, and other accessories into it. The hallow part makes storage and working sequence graceful, and protects these important weaving tools.
There is usually a reel for warp threads fixed at one end of a “ubung”. This design allows the weaver to straighten the warp threads with less effort, making the whole weaving process smooth and efficient. In addition, this design provides good support for the front part of a “ubung”, ensuring stability during weaving.
一個家,一個織布箱,以及響不停的咚咚聲--
苧麻的纖維非常獨特,它柔軟強韌,且單根纖維的長度可以達到60到250毫米,這使得苧麻成為麻類植物中纖維最長的一種。由苧麻製成的布料輕巧而結實,具有優異的散熱性,非常適合台灣潮濕的氣候。這些特性使得苧麻織布在台灣原住民族的傳統生活中占有重要地位。隨著外來文化的影響,台灣原住民族部落開始引入新的織布材料,這些新材料被用來製作各式各樣的服飾。這些引入不僅豐富了原住民族的傳統紡織工藝,也為他們的服飾帶來了更多樣的風格和表現形式。儘管如此,苧麻織布仍然是許多原住民族文化中傳統技藝的核心,承載著深厚的歷史意涵與文化價值
。
在織布過程中,苧麻的處理需要經過一系列繁複而精細的步驟,每一步都充滿了技巧和智慧。讓我們來一一了解這些步驟:
首先是「剝麻」的過程。這是苧麻織布的起點。族人會選用苧麻的莖和葉,將外層部分剝下。再來透過「刮麻」,用竹子做的刮麻器去除麻皮並清除纖維中的雜質。接著,這些纖維會被搓洗乾淨,並曬乾,為後續的製作做好準備。
從苧麻到線
接下來是「捻線」的步驟。這一過程中,族人會使用傳統的紡錘工具,將纖維緊密地捻合成細線。這些線將是織布的基礎,捻線的技巧需要相當高的技術,因為捻得過緊或過鬆都會影響最終布料的質地。
「上框架」是下一個關鍵步驟。在這個過程中,捻好的織線會被盤繞在框架上,形成環狀線圈。這樣做的目的是確保線在隨後的煮麻和洗麻過程中保持整潔,不會纏結或脫落。這個步驟既考驗了製作者的耐心,也需要非常細心地安排每一根織線的位置。
之後是「精練、漂白、染色」的步驟。太魯閣族用植物染料進行特殊處理,將其用於紗線的染色。例如,他們會切割薯榔和薑黃根,去除其中的雜質,然後將紗線浸泡其中,以實現褐色和黃色的染色效果。這些天然染料不僅能賦予布料美麗的色彩,還帶有自然的香氣,這是化學染料無法比擬的。
在完成染色之後,進入「整經」的階段。這個步驟是將紗線按照傳統布料
的順序整理好,然後將其排列在整經台上,形成縱向的經紗。整經的過程非常講究,需要根據布料的最終用途來決定紗線的排列順序和密度,這直接關係到布料的質感和強度。
waray nuqih苧麻線
資料來源機關 台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會
主題分類
織布
撰寫者
Tapang Cisin、Cimiing Miki
建檔單位
台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會
參考資料
台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會
材質
尺寸
使用時機
日常使用
授權狀態
台灣太魯閣族語言文化資產教育學會
本作品已獲得許可CC BY-NC 4.0